Midwest Bird & Exotic Animal Hospital 1923 So. Mannheim Road Westchester, Illinois 60154 (708) 344-8166 Rabbits make wonderful, intelligent, friendly and quiet house pets. The average life span for a bunny is 7 years with records being reported up to 15 years of age. The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life with him or her. DIET *Rabbit Pellets* - A good quality pellet should be offered daily but in limited quanitites. The UNCONTROLLED feeding of a pellet diet can lead to obesity with concurrent heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease from the high calcium levels in some pellets. Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more), and that you buy small quantities and keep it refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can contribute to a rabbit that stops eating. If you must buy more than two months of pellets at a time, freeze them. The following chart show DAILY AMOUNTS to be fed to your bunny. DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL EVEN IF THE PELLETS ARE ALL EATEN BEFORE THE NEXT DAY. 2-4 lb of body weight -- 1/4 cup daily 5-7 lb of body weight -- 1/2 cup daily 8-10 lb of body weight -- 3/4 cup daily 11-15 lb of body weight -- 1 cup daily (House Rabbit Society Note: The above amounts refer to adult rabbits only. Young rabbits can be given as much as they want up to about 6 months. After that, slowly reduced the amount of pellets until you reach the above suggested amount.) *Loose Timothy Hay* - TIMOTHY HAY OR GRASS HAY SHOULD BE OFFERED DAILY IN UNLIMITED AMOUNTS. We prefer the loose, long strands of hay, as opposed to the pressed cubes. The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal digestion and for the prevention of hairballs. These products also contain protiens and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet. We no longer recommend the use of alfalfa hay, as it has been shown to be too high in calcium and carbohydrates which may lead to serious health problems and digestive upsets. (HRS Note: Oat hay may also be given as it is low in calcium.) (Uploader's note: Timothy is unavailable in the western portion of the United States; in this case, substitute alfalfa and watch for signs of high calcium -- crystals in the urine or milky urine.) *Fresh and "Treat" Foods* - These foods should be given in limited quantities, as excessive amounts may lead to digestive upsets. Feed more than one treat food a day to get the pet used to variety so that if changes have to be made, they are tolerated more easily. ANY MAJOR CHANGE IN THE TYPES OF FOOD FED TO YOUR PET CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS DIGESTIVE UPSETS. Once you establish your pet's routine, please be consistent. Follow these guidelines: DAILY. Give your pet a combination of at least 3 of the following, in the same volume as the pellets given (i.e. a 2-4 lb rabbit would get a TOTAL of 1/4 of COMBINED greens, NOT 1/4 of each type): carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens (make sure they are pesticide free), carrot, alfalfa sprouts, clover sprouts or parsley (plain, not fancy curly leaf types). RARELY. We don't recommend starting these treats; this is primarily for the pet that is "hooked" on these items. Banana (fattening), dried fruit, crackers, nuts (fattening), and nonsugary breakfast cereals. NEVER. Never give your rabbit salty or sugary snacks or chocolate. These items can lead to a variety of disease problems. *Water* - This should be always available, and changed daily. A dirty water container can breed bacteria that cause disease. The containter can be either a water bottle of heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, as your pet may not drink if the color or taste is altered. *Vitamins* - These are not felt to be necesary if the rabbit is getting pellets in the diet. In fact, the indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to overdosage and serious disease. *Salt or Mineral Block* - Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet. You may want to have one available for those animals kept outdoors in warm climates and for breeding animals. *Papaya Enzyme Tablets* - We have found that the use of flavored, chewable papaya or papaya/pineapple enzyme tablets have been very useful in the prevention of hairballs in rabbits. These tablets contain digestive enzymes that help to bread down the hair in the stomach and help it to pass on through the digestive tract. We give these daily at 1 tablet per 5 lbs of body weight. The first time you present them to your bunny, you may need to push the tablet into your pet's mouth to give him or her a taste. After one or two times, your pet should eat the tablets out of your hand or out of the food dish. These tablets are readily available at any human health food store. An alternative to the tablets is the use of fresh pineapple or papaya chunks fed to your rabbit at least 2 times weekly. Some rabbits will eat these fruits readily, and should be fed 1 tablespoon of fruit per 5 lb body weight. Do not use canned products, as the canning process destroys the enzyme in the fruit. (HRS Note: we have found that Prozyme, a multiple enzyme product, is even more effective in preventing hairballs or enteritis. It is great for bunnies with sensitive digestive systems or for bunnies that are molting, etc. If you are using Prozyme, it can completely replace the papaya enzyme.) *Night Feces* - It may seem strange to list this as part of the diet, but these "special droppings" are an essential part of your pet's nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually in the evening, you my observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process. These cecal pellets, as they are called, are softer and greener than the normal hard, round waste droppings. Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will take care of eating them himself. These cecal pellets come from the cecum, which is part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place, and they are rich in vitamins and nutrients which are needed by your pet to maintain good health. After eating these "vitamin pellets" he will redigest the material and extract all the necessary elements. This habit may appear distasteful to use but it is normal and important for your pet. Occasionally a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets instead of eating them. They will be soft but formed, and they will have an odor. This is not considered diarrhea, and if it only occurs occasionally, it is not considered a disease problem. ENVIRONMENT *Cage* - A metal cage may be used with a wire flooring of approximately 14 gauge wire (1" x 1/2" square openings). A solid floored area is necessary to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area for resting. One can use a towel (unless you have a pet that likes to eat towels) or pieces of carpeting or wood for the solid area. Corn cob or newspaper can be used under the wire. Do not use aquariums or solid walled cages as the lack of sufficient air circulation has been directly correlated with an increase in respiratory disease. The size of the cage should be at least 24" x 24" x 18" high for the small and medium sized breeds and 36" x 36" x 24" high for the large breeds. If you are going to have your bunny roaming the house either all or most of the time, make sure that you eliminate areas that your pet can get wedged in or escape from. Also watch out for electrical cords which they like to chew on, carpeting which they like to dig up and chew, and any toxic materials such as rodent poisons that your pet could get into. Get on your hands and knees and "bunny-proof" your home. (HRS Note:Please avoid any wood shavings as litter materials, especially cedar or pine shavings. Most shavings contain a natural toxin; bunnies exposed to shavings over a long period can become ill. There are many alternatives available on the market, such as organic Cat Country, Bird Country, Alfacob, etc.) *Litter Box* - Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily. Initially you need to keep your pet in a small area, either a cage or a blocked off section of the room and place a litter box in the corner (try to pick the corner your pet has already used). Make sure the sides are low enough for your pet to get in and out easily. It is helpful to put some droppings in the box with the rabbit. You can reward your pet with one of the treat foods listed previously whenver he or she uses the box successfully. Do not punish your pet while in the litter box. Do not worry if your pet sits for extended periods in the litter box, this can be allowed, as long as the bunny isn't soiling him or herself. *Temperature* - Rabbits should be kept in the COOLEST and least humid area of the house. A current study has shown that bunnies kept in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation, had a dramatic increased in the incidence of respiratory disease over those animals kept in cool, dry environments with good air cirulation. Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet. The optimum temperature range for a bunny is 60-70 degrees. When the temperature gets even in the mid-70's, we start to see an increase in drooling and nasal discharge. If temperatures reach the upper-80's and beyond, and especially if the humidity is high, the potential for a fatal heat stroke is very real. On very hot days, when air conditioning is not available it is helpful to leave a plastic milk jug filled with water and frozen in the cage for a portable "air conditioner." Please keep fresh, cool water available, as this will also help to keep the body temperature down. If your pet should actually experience a heat stress reaction, try holding an ice cube on the ear; you might also try gently wetting your pet down with cool (not cold) water. If the heat stroke is severe, veterinary attention may be necessary. If your bunny is kept outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the cage is sheltered from the wind and the sun. For the winter it is advisable to use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and make sure that the water bowl is changed daily, as your pet can dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen for several days. (HRS Note: we recommend not leaving your rabbit outdoors overnight. Predators, such as raccoons and cats, can cause shock that can lead to death.) MEDICAL PROBLEMS *Females* - The leading cause of death in the female rabbit is a cancer of the uterus called adenocarcinoma. This is a highly malignant disease, and unfortunately, once it is diagnosed, it has usually spread to other areas of the body. This cancer is preventible by having your pet spayed between 6 months and 2 years of age. The spay procedure involves removal of the bunny's uterus and ovaries. This procedure will also help to prevent the occurrence of breast cancer later in life. *Males* - Some male bunnies, especially the dwarf varieties, may become extrememly aggressive when they reach sexual maturity. There may be excessive biting and spraying of urine outside of the regular litter box area. The urine may develop a very strong and unpleasant odor, due to the presence of male hormones. These little boys may not groom themselves well, developing stained and messy tail areas. These males may start attacking other rabbits, leading to serious bite wounds. The best solution to these behavioral problems is castration (surgical removal of the testicles). This procedure is recommended to be done any time after 5 months of age. *Overgrown Teeth* - Overgrown incisors (the front teeth) are usually caused by a congenital defect. Other causes can be injury or trauma to the roots of these teeth or overgrowth of the molars (the back teeth). Rabbits' teeth grow constantly throughout their lives and, if they are not lined up properly, they will not wear down; thus they will over grow and cause mouth infections, ulcerations and an inability to pick up and eat food. The most common treatment for these overgrowths are to have the teeth cut periodically (anywhere from every 3 to 8 weeks). If the molars are involved, or if the animal is very skittish, a general anesthetic may be required for the procedure. A permanent cure for the overgrwon incisors is the removal of the incisors entirely under a general anesthetic. Rabbits are able to eat normally afterward and the teeth no longer have to be clipped. If your pet has teeth problems, please discuss the options with your verterinarian. *Hairballs in the Stomach* - Rabbits have very fine hair that tends to clump together in the stomach. They have a relatively slow digestive tract compared to humans and material tends to stay there longer (up to 3 days) which also contributes to the accumulation of hair. When your bunny licks itself, it swallows hair (especially large amounts during the spring and fall hair molt), which clumps together in potentially larger and larger amounts. Rabbits do not have the ability to vomit, so they cannot bring up the mass of hair. If enough hair accumulates the animal will stop eating and stop producing stools. Initially the stools may appear clumped together and then get small and smaller until they stop altogether. Your pet will still appear active, alert and lively for up to the first week of this condition. The rabbit may still be eating, but don't be deceived by his lack of depression, he has a serious disease condition and you should seek medical attention IMMEDIATELY. If the problem is caught early, your pet can be treated medically with a combination of force feedings, hairball laxative products and enzyme products. Occasionally, surgery is necessary to alleviate the problem (usually this is needed when the condition has been allowed to progress to long). The best prevention for hariballs is a diet high in fiber as described in this handout, and daily brushing of the coat (especially during the normal hair molt periods), with a wire "slicker"-type brush. *Pasteurellosis* - The great majority of bunnies harbor a bacteria in their sinuses called Pasteurella multocida. This bacteria doesn't cause a problem in most bunnies with a healthy immune system. However, under certain stress situations, such as poor diet, high environmental temperatures, poor air circulation, overcrowding, moving, etc., this bacteria can reproduce rapidly and cause potentially serious disease. This bacteria may cause infections of the upper respiratory tract, uterus, kidney, bladder, middle ear or lungs. Please have your pet examined if you observe any discharges around the eyes, nose or anal area, or if there is a loss of appetite, depression, diarrhea, head tilt, loss of balance, or labored breathing. NEVER attempt to use antibiotics without veterinary supervision. Your pet's gastro-intestinal tract is an extremely delicate organ, dependent on large populations of healthy bacteria to digest food. If antibiotics are given indiscriminately, death may result from the lack of growth of the normal bacteria and the overgrowth of the deadly bacteria. (HRS Note: If your bunny starts sneezing, has a runny nose or any other "cold" symptoms, contact a veterinarian immediately. Do NOT mistake these symptoms for a common cold, as there is no such thing in a rabbit. Also, please note that antibiotics in the penicillin family, especially amoxicillin, can be fatal to your bunny.) HANDLING There are a number of ways to pick up your pet depending on how calm he is and his size. The main thing to remember is to always support the hind quarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Rabbits' backbones are fragile and can easily snap, if the hind legs are allowed to dangle, with one strong kick. Unfortunately, these injuries are usually permanent and frequently result in euthanasia; the best policy is prevention. Never pick a bunny up by its sensitive ears; this is very painful and unnecessary. We would encourage you to call the clinic at (708) 344-8166 if you have a question or problem. Above all, enjoy your pet, give him or her your love and affection; they deserve it and will repay you with years of enjoyment and the opportunity to see life at a slower, calmer, "bunny pace." Copyrighted by the Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital. This document has been uploaded to Compuserve by permission of the Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital.